by smart

there it is right there can you see inside there there’s a piece of something stuck in there that is our problem [Music] that little chunk right there is what was causing that thing to bypass so that little piece on my finger is what was stuck and you can actually see the mark right here where it’s shiny on the seat that piece was stuck there allowing the gas to bypass inside the head pressure control valve so it wasn’t a failure of the valve it was contaminants in the system this video is brought to you by sportlin quality integrity and tradition today we have a call on a walking cooler not working and it’s interesting because the fans are not running now these fans run 24 7 so there’s no reason for them to be off the customer said they checked all the breakers um let’s hope it’s not something this obvious nope not that easy okay so um first and foremost we need to start with the evaporative fan motors see why they’re not running so we’re gonna open this guy up electrical should be in there figure out the electrical issue and then go from there ah so this guy is electric defrost so the fans are controlled from the roof so we actually need to go up there it looks like the limit switch been bypassed but yeah our issue is probably going to be on the roof because our power comes from the roof down to here so i’m checking between four and n and i have no power so that should be my 208 volt power so we do need to jump onto the roof this uh satellite looks intimidating what the heck beefy thing i feel like i’m getting herpes just standing in front of it or curing me of it i don’t know it’s weird all right my rack is right here that’s a good sign that all the fan motors are running it’s a little dirty this is a little odd uh-oh i don’t like to see a trip breaker that’s not good it’s not good at all i need to figure out if that’s my walk-in cooler let’s see walking cooler system f a b c d e f oh no all right oh i think this is my walk-in cooler it’s not a good sign that you see oil all right here and it’s also not a good sign that the compressor tag is completely melted off man i hope we don’t have a bad compressor that’s gonna suck all right well open it up and get some gauges on it and test system to ground all right the first thing i’m gonna do i rese all right turned off the breaker so there’s no power and i come over here and we’re testing the ground okay so we’re grounded out right here and we’ve got no continuity to ground on that winding nothing on that one nothing on that one so that’s a good sign now we’re gonna check the windings themselves okay that’s interesting four on one two on another oh you know why because this is a single face that’s right that makes sense i was thinking this was a three-phase for a minute yeah so so the compressor still has resistance so that’s a plus it’s definitely been overheating though it’s not hot right now looks like maybe there’s a refrigerant leak or there was a refrigerant leak it looks pretty dried up okay we’re going to open up this electrical box and see what’s going on in there so right off the bat nothing’s really jumping out at me in there looks okay okay looking at wiring making sure nothing rubbed out where do we have a potential short here guess at this point i mean it’s not really gonna matter but i’m gonna put service gauges on it to see if we actually have pressure in the system too all right that is a plus the system has refrigerant in it so all right we need to grab the meter and go tone out some other places and see if we can’t find a direct short somewhere maybe that caused the breaker to trip okey dokey so let’s have a look at the contactor i mean it doesn’t look amazing but it doesn’t look horrible it’s okay it’s not welded shut okay here’s my time clock right here we currently have no voltage just check that so we’re going to have to test the ground to see where a potential short might be on the end terminal nothing on the number four terminal i’m checking the ground nothing on the number three terminal and nothing on one nothing is grounded and it wasn’t in a defrost when it tripped remember this is electric defrost so it was in cooling mode when it tripped so what caused it to trip interesting huh well we have power turned off so we’re gonna test on the bottom side of that contactor to ground to see if there’s a short in the wiring contactor to ground no short this is the load side of the contactor no short or no direct short to ground um okay so there’s nothing wrong there i don’t see any issues in the electrical oh it’s a tricky one so what caused this guy to trip the breaker interesting not seeing anything in there it could be a start capacitor i mean a run capacitor issue um we better test those and then also we need to look into this wiring to make sure nothing happened in here don’t see any issue there we better test that crankcase heater too so i’m going to get in here and look around see if i’m going to pull this cover off too okay the start capacitor is testing at 93 microfarads and it’s supposed to be 88 to 108 so the start capacitor is fine we need to test that run cap now the run cap is testing good it’s supposed to be 35 microfarads and we’re right at 35 so okay testing the crankcase heater it’s not grounded out and it’s got resistance across itself so the crankcase heater is good this is interesting i don’t know what caused this breaker to trip i’m kind of concerned huh all right at this point i’ve checked everything and uh i think it’s just time to turn on the breaker but i’m gonna leave the compressor disconnected we’re gonna turn it on without the compressor and then uh see where that gets us all right um yeah cause all the condenser fan motors are running i mean there’s nothing else really tied into us except for these relays i don’t know what those relays go to see if it says anything on here system f yeah r1 so those relays do go on there oh well we’re just gonna turn it on and see what happens okay power’s on hold in the contactor all right let’s go check to see if we have voltage at the compressor check voltage here all right we have 200 volts between run and common so that’s good but why did it trip the breakers the question i mean we’re really just going to have to wire it in i want to go down and inspect the evaporator a little bit more before uh i connect this compressor back in because i want to make sure we don’t have any shorts and i don’t want to damage anything in the compressor before i go down there i’m going to click this into defrost no trip yet let’s see what we got here between three and n 208 so we’re sending defrost power still we’re sending nothing to the refrigeration circuit let’s take it out and let’s check our refrigeration circuit four and we’ve got 208 volts going down to the evaporator fan motors let’s go downstairs and see what’s going on down there i’m intrigued to know why oh someone cut out the fan delay switch so all the evaporator fan motors are running man i hope it’s not a bad compressor i don’t see anything going on up in here it’s like a needle on a haystack this thing’s kind of a mess but i’m not seeing anything i mean nothing looks like it’s shorted heaters don’t look the greatest but huh okay well i’m not seeing anything we’re gonna have to turn the compressor on and see what happens all right well at this point it’s time to turn it on see what happens so we got to connect this compressor back in okay we’re gonna turn it on and see what happens please don’t be a bad compressor it’s running but it’s not moving refrigerant what’s going on here well the compressor is not hot but it’s not pumping refrigerant nothing’s happening we’re gonna turn it off more than likely we’re gonna have a bad compressor that stinks okay we’re off i’m trying to think in my head right now there’s nothing that could be causing these pressures to do this we’re hooked onto the suction side we’re hooked on to the discharge side we should have compression and we don’t it’s like the motor is just moving let’s try it again it’s on no pressure change and we’re pulling current so the motor’s moving but it’s not moving the scrolls something’s happened inside that sucks all right i got my new compressor it’s a little guy um what i was able to do was front seat these valves recover the charge in the compressor and i’m only going to have to if all goes well unsweat these and sweat the new compressor in that’s the plan let’s hope that everything matches up the way that it’s supposed to but it looks like it’ll work so i’m going to get in here and sand up these braze joints unsweat them and then pull the compressor out of the way and go from there we’ve got some new starting components new molex plug so try to get it dialed in once we get the compressor replaced we’ll vacuum it down start it up and then we’ll uh pump the system down and change the dryer [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so what i get for trying to rush through things i had a casualty of war here pressure control the low side came off of there because i didn’t do it take it off when i was trying to unsweat it but i think i have one of those in my van hopefully but anyways i’m going to keep going with the compressor changeout [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] all right got the compressor sweat in just two simple guys it went right in that’s perfect i still got to figure out the bolts and stuff but i’m going to get uh that pressure control hose replaced and the vacuum pump running on this guy so that way we can uh start it up right quick and i still got to change the starting components too so i’m going to run down to the truck and see what i got all right well yeah i kind of screwed myself i don’t have one of these hoses so i’m going to have to do it with two flare nuts and some quarter inch copper we’re going to make a little chingus and connect it to that so so so all right it is not pretty but it’ll work for the night nice and there so i’m gonna get the vacuum pump running on it and then uh hopefully we can start this guy up all right because i’m just evacuating the shell of the compressor there’s no need to go crazy with my vacuum setup the quarter inch hoses will be fine it’ll take a few minutes but i got to put the starter components in anyways and do the crankcase heater so we got plenty of time we’ll just let it run it’ll get down into the micron levels here in just a minute uh pull the vacuum um opened up the valves we’re good to go uh we got pressure on both sides we’re ready to start this guy up everything’s wired in in here crank case heater is wired in this guy’s ready to go and hope that uh everything goes well crank it and it’s running so we’re gonna let it operate let it run for a few minutes see if we can bring the box temp down um then we’ll change the dryer i may even change the dryer in the morning we’ll have to see i’m gonna let it run for a few minutes and see what happens i don’t want to shut it off quite yet hot discharge uh cool ish suction it’s gonna be a while i’m gonna try to clean up some of my messes and let it run for a little bit so all right we have been running for a few minutes we’ve got a cool cold suction line coming back and i noticed that my head pressure’s really high it’s probably only 80 degrees out here uh it shouldn’t be this high so i come over here to my head pressure control valve and it’s bypassing it’s stuck so i have a really hot [Music] line coming out of the head pressure control valve and then the liquid drain coming out of the condenser is a lot cooler than this line so this thing is bypassing hot gas through and that’s probably what added to the compressor failure it’s probably been running like that for a long time and remember the old compressor had a burnt sticker on it so what i’m going to try to do is i’m going to try to go ahead and put a sprinkler on the condenser for tonight i have a head pressure control valve at the shop i just don’t have one with me tonight and i would have to recover the charge so if i can get a sprinkler on it for tonight to get it to make it through the night and keep the head pressure i could be here first thing in the morning we’ll change this guy we’ll recover the charge we’ll make it look nice and put a new head pressure control valve on there um so i think that’s what we’re gonna have to do just to get us through the night we’re gonna go downstairs and make sure it’s getting cold and i’ll uh clean up my messes and then get a mister on the condenser temporarily what i did we got to make sure the side glass stays clear though is the problem hopefully it has enough refrigerant so my head pressure is dropping got to give it a minute because the side glass is still flashing and i don’t like it but it could just be because it’s opening all the way it’s interesting because uh it’s still bypassing but it’s gotten a lot better um i actually turned off the mister and just forced on all the condenser fan motors and that’s a reasonable head pressure i’m gonna let it run for a few minutes and make sure it doesn’t get too high but the side glass is clear super cold suction line coming back the temperature in the box was like 42 a few minutes ago so we’re gonna let it run for a few more minutes just make sure there’s no other issues all right we are back this morning got my whole van on the roof we got to recover the charge got a bucket full of ice so we’re going to uh get ready to change that head pressure control valve what i have here let me close this off is i went ahead and put my service gauges on there we went ahead and opened the packings or loosen the packings on these guys so important okay actuated the valves and you can see my my system pressure it’s not too bad you know nothing too alarming i’d say it’s about 80 degrees outside right now but we still have the same problem we have discharge refrigerant coming out of the compressor going up that line into the condenser coming out of the condenser on that 3 8 line but the problem is is that this right here going into my receiver is hotter than the 3 8 line coming out of the condenser which means that this head pressure control valve right here is partially bypassing and it should not be because the bypass pressure on that guy is about 180 psi and we’re at 272 psi that should be shut all right this discharge or this line right here should not be hotter than the liquid line during normal operation or the liquid drain coming out of the condenser so that’s more than likely what killed this compressor now i got it operational last night by manually making all the condenser fan motors run and by putting a mister on the condenser right here just to get them through the night we’re going to turn that off we’re going to recover the refrigerant change the valve and hopefully be done with this guy we’re gonna see i turned off the misting device and my head pressure’s slowly climbing now and it’s gonna continue to climb you know last night it was about the same temperature as it is right now and we were at like 320 psi or something uh which was too high for the temperature uh you can see right now it’s about 87 degrees so um but it’s slowly going to climb more and more until it becomes a problem um so at this point we’re gonna go ahead and shut this guy off we’re gonna go ahead and recover the charge out of the system and then uh go from there so i’m trying to take a shortcut and so what i did was i put my high side on the receiver port and i pumped it down but it’s interesting this is one of those where the receiver port loses pressure when you pump it down so there’s still high side pressure in there what i’m inevitably trying to do is i’m going to recover the charge out of the high side but as it gets really low i’m actually going to shut it off and uh close front seat these valves well that’s the plan so that way we don’t have to evacuate on the compressor oil later and now we’re just evacuating on the system but i’ll have to see if i can make that happen or not because of the weird setup they have we’ve got our tank and ice water carefully on the scale large diameter hoses everything’s set up we purged it it’s basically ready to open up we’re gonna start filling with refrigerant we’ll pull from both sides we’ll go ahead and hit start now the ice water is there to reduce the tank pressure because it’s warmer outside and the tank pressure will come up to the point that it’ll trip the head pressure control um everything helps with this the ice water the large diameter hoses no schraders all of that helps to speed up the process now the maximum amount of refrigerant r404a that we can put in here is just a little over 17 pounds so we’re weighing it as we’re pulling it out that way we don’t overfill the cylinder so we’ve done everything we can we sanded up the head pressure control valve we unbolted it we’re just about done recovering we’re on the tail end of being overfilled on the cylinder but when i calculated it i put the maximum temperature of 130 degree tank temperature that’s if i was to store it in my van as you decrease the temperature the storage capacity goes up we are going to just be reusing this refrigerant so it’s not 130 degrees right now it’s just about 80 degrees so if you take 167 psi that’s the outlet pressure that’s the pressure in the tank uh 404 it’s going to be right around 80ish degrees so we’re good right now but that’s why it’s so important that we cooled this guy down on hotter days that temperature gets super high and it creates a problem but look at we’re just in the negative and we’re right at 18 pounds so we’re gonna go ahead and shut this guy off and get changing on that valve all right we are purging with nitrogen right there i do have to unsweat the valve so we’re gonna do that real quick and then uh move on all right so this right here i tried to put the bushing in and it wouldn’t fit it’s like oblong so if you’ve ever run into that what you do is take a screwdriver and round it out careful not to go too big there we go good to go we’re just about to fit the head pressure control valve in i had to put the bushing on um yeah we’re doing good got some of the wet rag heat blocking compound packed around that valve so that way it tries to protect it from overheating but remember i’ve said it many times you need to get that stuff off asap because the moisture in the compound helps to absorb the heat and displace it temporarily but eventually when that moisture starts to evaporate the heat is going to transfer through into the valve so when you’re done brazing kick that stuff off asap with something because it’s going to be hot that way you protect the valve more yeah i use the wrench and give it a tap down low [Music] hello [Music] i don’t like it [Music] so [Music] there it goes so [Music] so so [Music] my okay [Music] so so okay so you always back them up because the lines will twist you’ll break something so that’s one we’ll have to do something to make sure it doesn’t rub on the discharge line and we’ll figure that out you always back it up that way you don’t twist the fitting off use leverage to help you okay what i need you to do is hold this so it doesn’t turn we’re going to get in here and change the dryer i just got to kind of go for it so we’re going to get the old dryer out [Music] [Music] [Music] i probably should have gotten my bigger wrenches but i’m stubborn and just using the small six inch ones all right so we’re pulling an evacuation got the 10 cfm pump kicking butt right now i just closed the gas ballast because we just came down to a deep back or deeper vacuum we’re about 600 microns now that’s not a true micron reading because i’m actually pulling from the high side too but i’m using fieldpiece’s new uh micron gauge the mg44 look at that display nice big display battery level indicator and then uh it’s got features on it where it tells you how how fast it’s pulling down um got a menu alarm feature over here one little port that i really like about it a little feature they have is the coupler right here has trader core depressors on both sides so that’s kind of cool because sometimes you you run into a situation where this might won’t fit and you got to use the other side kind of neat little feature so um anyways as we’re going with our evacuation right now i’m going to pull an initial vacuum but eventually i’m going to close off the high side and the liquid side and pull just from the suction so that way we get a true reading on the micron gauge okay because right now that’s a much lower reading than it actually is in the system because it’s it’s so close to the vacuum pump itself so we’re going to give it some time clean up some of our messes we got to clean off the wet rag compound and just kind of overall clean up our job site because we got a lot of stuff and then we’ll go from there we got down to about 600 microns and i closed off i back seated this valve and the liquid line port and it is inevitable that it’s slowly going to rise it rose up a little bit but now it’s a true vacuum because it’s not pulling from here anymore and it’s only pulling from the suction side and it’s going all the way through the system okay and you see we’re slowly dropping so that’s a really good sign it’s always important to understand the evacuation and how it works and how a true vacuum works versus getting the you know affected by the pumps pull in a negative way i should say all right we’re doing good um cool thing i wanted to point out too is the micron gauge works with the field piece app so right now it’s in the sun it’s kind of hard to see but i can pull it up on the app and you can set everything within the app you can log it you can set all the fun stuff in there so cool within the field piece out that works perfect our evacuation is looking good we’re actually in decay right now and we’re rising slowly we’re at 6 48 right now so nice and good um i’m pulling an evacuation on the gauges before we hook them up to the system or before we open the system to get them pulled down so that we’re not opening you know air into the system basically but yeah we’re doing good our decay is looking good um it’s always important to understand you’re never going to hit a perfect vacuum on an old system old systems um they have refrigerant in the oil little pockets everywhere and it’s never going to be a perfect vacuum so always understand that you always want to try your hardest to get the best vacuum but you also got to be practical some things you can do to speed the evacuation up the entire time is agitate the compressor shake it turn on the crankcase heater which mine’s on right now i have the system energized solenoid valves open and i have the compressor plug disconnected so but yeah we’re doing good it’s just slowly rising into k 662. so i’m happy with that and we’re just pulling this guy down before we open it up to our you know to the system and start charging it all right we are running this guy’s back on and running we’re going to go ahead and finish charging all the refrigerant now i flipped over the cylinder and hooked up to the vapor port just to make the charging process go faster so just so we weren’t going through that dip tube but uh we’re gonna go ahead and put all the gas that was in here and then we got to pump it down and check the liquid level on the receiver all right so we got our valve right here and we’re gonna go ahead and pull it apart and see what caused it to stick my opinion on these valves is it’s usually user error system error it’s not the valve that failed it’s something that got stuck in the valve so let’s go ahead and actually put the wrenches on there the right way there we go and there we go yeah we’re gonna very carefully try to pull this guy open and see what is in there okay look at all that that gunk is stuck in there this valve is trashed look at the seat on that it’s it’s got gunk in there there’s like nastiness oil sludge there it is right there can you see inside there there’s a piece of something stuck in there that is our problem [Music] that little chunk right there is what was causing that thing to bypass so that little piece on my finger is what was stuck and you can actually see the mark right here where it’s shiny on the seat that piece was stuck there allowing the gas to bypass inside the head pressure control valve so it wasn’t a failure of the valve it was contaminants in the system now that i’m interested to know what that is i don’t know if that’s something from the compressor because that’s pretty hard metal so there was something floating around in there for sure caused some damage our system is pumped down and we went ahead and took a heat producing device and we heated up the side of the receiver now my paint marker went a little crazy but uh that line up top is the liquid level so the liquid levels at the three-quarter mark we can’t put any more refrigerant in this system that’s the maximum amount we didn’t add any that’s what we took out so the system has the maximum amount of refrigerant in it so at this point we’re gonna go ahead and uh clean up all of our tools and then do a thorough cleaning on this condenser because it’s dirty well i was able to kind of get into this condenser back in here and i’m gonna get some coil cleaner kind of spray it from this side out it’s not gonna be perfect it’s not too thick so i’ll be honest i probably don’t need to do a whole lot from it here i might just rinse it from in here um because again it’s only it’s only this thick i think we can get right through that no problem as long as the water is going through but we’ll have to see if it actually goes all the way through i think it is yeah but it’s always best to try to get it from the inside out if you can so we’re using the venom pack brightener i’m gonna get in here and go to town so i’m not i’m on like the second to least amount of concentration basically so we’re going to get it all on there let it sit this is the the brightener so you got to be careful about leaving it on too long we’re going to let it sit on there break everything down and then we’ll give it a good rinse and let’s see what we can get out of this bad boy went out nice and good i can hear it going right through the other side so it’s nice and clean some good stuff coming out the bottom but we’re gonna be good to go all right we’re all cleaned up um i had ramped both of these thermostats down really low so the way they do it one of these fan motors runs 24 7 the other two are staged on temperature controllers and i have it set for 80 and 85 set all the defrost plugs everything else is put back in so we’re just slowly wrapping this one up the box i went down there a few minutes ago the box was at uh 50 degrees and they had just gotten a food delivery so that’s why we’ve only been up here for like three hours or so but the uh the box temp came up way high but it’s because they got a delivery and they left the door open and all that stuff so um but yeah we’re should be doing good head pressure yeah looking good i just got a wet condenser right now too though but we’re getting there okay we’re gonna autopsy this little guy so we’re gonna pour out the oil first see how much is in it so far just letting the oil pour out we’re gonna try to figure out why this guy failed it’s been long enough that i can honestly tell you i don’t remember what happened to it you guys are watching the video so you guys have already seen what happened to it i’m trying to remember i don’t know if it was a starting component failure or a locked road ramps it’s been a long couple weeks so i’ve been sitting on this video for a while so there’s some oil not a lot of oil though well we’re gonna keep letting it drain and then we’ll see what comes of it okay the oil doesn’t look bad but there’s also not a lot of it in there so i don’t see too many rust flakes or anything i mean uh you know metal shavings or anything in it yet but we’ll go ahead and open this guy up and give it a cut so the easiest way on these guys each one of these little dimples right here is what’s holding part of the scroll together it actually sits inside in there and holds the mechanism in place so we’re going to cut around the top we’re going to cut down the seam and we’ll cut around the bottom and we’ll separate the scroll assembly every time i cut one of these open and i get to pull the head off i think of the movie uh hannibal when he pulls the dude’s head off when the dude’s still alive now when i do this you want to try to be as careful as possible to not get the metal shavings inside it’s inevitable that you’re going to get some in there but okay we’ve got the top off now now we’ve got to cut down the seam the weld right here so we’re going to cut straight down this weld and then we’ll probably have to flip it over and cut the bottom off too all right we got the shell cut open now you see the fusite plug right on the back side is just another plug and then on that it looks just like a standard compressor plug okay so we’ve got this guy opened up now we’re gonna disassemble it get it separated you can see these little um dimples right here see those those are them right there and they actually set in the housing right here and hold this in okay so we’re gonna keep on going through this guy now little round dimples inside this they’re scarring on the top of the scroll plate that’s very interesting i don’t know if you guys can see it very well but it’s like round scarring in there and same thing in here look at this huh that’s very interesting there’s plenty of oil in here so i don’t think it was a lack of oil huh wow look at that man that is some serious scarring to the surface there very interesting huh very interesting when it comes to these guys um i like saving the parts just for demonstration purposes later so what i’ll do is take some of the multi-purpose cleaner from refrigeration technologies put it in a bucket and it works as a good degreaser it let it sit in there for about a day or two and then once you pull the parts out rinse them immediately and dry them off and you’ll have nice good clean scroll compressor parts and it’ll help to break down all the grease and oils and everything so we’re gonna set all the parts in the bucket fill it up with water degrease it and i’ll use this for demonstration purposes later this is a nice one because it’s a really small one and it’s not too heavy all right there was clearly something making its way through the system that compressor to me looked like it had been pounding on something the the whole scroll plate was completely polished like something abrasive something was moving through there and then the uh head pressure control valve that had something stuck in it i can’t tell you how many people i see on social media message me comment on my youtube videos of how they hate head pressure control valves and how they always fail in my opinion head pressure control valves don’t fail on their own just like a compressor they’re typically murdered okay the amount of head pressure control valves that actually have a failure that is just a valve that’s worn out or something like that in my opinion is very very rare majority of the time it’s improper refrigeration practices and or some sort of component in the system that is broken now on the flip side hey maybe we should put some kind of a strainer like or or even some sort of a filter dryer or something like that that’s not a bad idea installing a filter dryer uh before the head pressure control valve to catch anything from going into it you know because majority of the time i i’ve honestly never really thought about that but now that i do majority of the time the head pressure control valve has failed that i’ve seen it has been something contaminating the inside of it you know so if we put some sort of a filter or a strainer something that’s removable i’d like to be a flare or something like that that you know we can pop out ball valve it off and clean the dryer or something like that that would potentially prevent whatever was stuck inside that valve and i can’t help but wonder if what was stuck inside that valve had made its way through the compressor too i know it’s almost impossible for something to make its way all the way up into that scroll assembly but i mean obviously it did because it made it out of the out of the discharge line into the head pressure control valve and it was clearly a piece of something had this thing had a reciprocating compressor honestly it looked like a piece of a reed from a valve plate is what it looked like okay so this was a frustrating call because you know of course you heard me saying please don’t be a compressor please don’t be a compressor this was late in the evening right or late afternoon that i got this call and then clearly it led into the evening because i was changing the compressor now i used some some shortcuts but you know i was still being smart about it i didn’t change the dryer the night that i changed the compressor because i knew i was coming back to change that pressure control hose um and the head pressure control valve so there’s no point in wasting my time trying to change the dryer the night before uh you know yeah it was a flare but still i you know i just wanted to go home and there’s nothing wrong with that okay and then also the way that i changed the compressor i valved it off and just recovered the charge in the compressor shell then swapped out the compressor if you look at the systems depending on the setup you know you can do that and it could save you some time okay so we got the system operational clearly though right i’ve said before if you choose to take shortcuts sometimes there can be repercussions and be prepared to have to solve those repercussions right in my situation i took a shortcut and didn’t protect the low pressure control hose and it melted off okay honestly one of the reasons why i don’t like those flexible hoses is because they’re susceptible to that kind of damage but on the flip side a capillary tube hose can break too if it rubs up against something but if a capillary tube hose is properly installed you’re never going to get it melting off and it’s never going to rub up against something if you secure it appropriately putting silicone on it that kind of stuff okay but anyways i went back to the pressure control hose put that back on uh you know i ran into some struggles i tried to leave those struggles in the video like when i was uh brazen in the head pressure control valve i was having some issues with it getting to fit back in you know this kind of stuff happens and you saw how difficult it was i had to climb head first in there to change the dryer this stuff is real okay these are the things that i run into all the time and a lot of you guys probably run into those things too and i feel like we need to show this more because so many people see this and they think oh this is the easiest job in the world while this is a fun job and it’s a very rewarding job and it’s a very technical job sometimes you do run into difficulties and frustrations you know changing a compressor at night time getting home at nine ten o’clock at night okay for you supermarket guys i know you guys deal with this stuff all the time but it’s like commercial guys you know i mean this is frustrating when we have to do these emergency calls i would say that i get calls like this maybe once a month maybe once every other month i get a late night call where i have to change a compressor or something like that it does happen okay so really important when you are on call you need to be prepared okay remember that when you are on call don’t drink you know don’t do things that’s going to impair your ability be careful about taking medications and things like that because you will get those calls and they do come in at two in the morning three in the morning it happens okay so um i like to autopsy the compressors honestly though when i pulled this one apart i could see there was damage but it’s interesting though because when this thing was trying to run um you know when i was diagnosing it the damage that i saw to the compressor i haven’t quite connected that to the failure the failure of the compressor was the motor was running but it wasn’t pumping i didn’t see a broken shaft or anything like that i mean the motor seemed fine the motor still had the proper resistance value everything seemed good with it there was no damage to the bearing surfaces there looked like there was oil in the system while it looked a little bit low the parts were all lubricated properly inside the system and uh you know there was enough oil that the uh the natural oil it’s not an oil pump it’s actually on the bottom of the shaft that it grabs it i mean it seemed like that would would be pulling the oil up into the compressor but it was interesting how polished those surfaces were on the scroll plate so that’s definitely an issue what i’m actually going to do is i’m actually gonna send this uh the i’m gonna message my buddy trevor matthews with emerson and ask him to look at the the damage and uh you know i’ll give him some points and and see what he has to say about it and what he thinks happened uh because this is an interesting one to me you know i’ll be honest majority of the scroll failures i see are either a grounded scroll or um i’ve seen mechanical failure inside the scroll i think i’ve autopsied a video showing that one and then also i’ve seen what’s the other failure oh the the pressure relief device has failed being that it’s gone off so many times you know uh the differential pressure relief valve i’ve seen that fail to where it won’t pump anymore you know but i’ve never seen this failure where we had a locked up compressor but then when i opened it up it or it wasn’t locked up where we had a compressor where the motor was running but it wasn’t pumping and another thing too just to i don’t i don’t think i showed it in the video enough this compressor was not hot when i arrived so it’s not like it was off on a thermal overload or anything like that and you could clearly see that it just wasn’t pumping there was something going on inside that compressor there’s an interesting one okay um yeah i think that’s pretty much everything that i wanted to cover i do want to say thank you guys so very much for making it to the end of this video you guys are awesome um if you haven’t already please check out my website hvacrvideos.com it’s a great way to support the channel i’ve got hats shirts beanies all that good stuff it’s just a cool way that you can support it and get something in return other ways to support the channel is through patreon there’s links in the show notes of this video through paypal through youtube channel memberships but the easiest way guys to support the channel is simply watch the video from start to end without skipping through anything okay when you do that youtube runs the ads obviously and then youtube pays me and and it’s just a cool way to help because you know i do spend a lot of time on these videos of course i’m still going to make them you know whether you support them or not because i do like to share this information but it definitely helps to have you know something to help me out because i i put in hours and hours on these videos you know editing them and you know responding to emails and live streams and all that good stuff but anyways we’re enough talking about that really really appreciate you guys remember that i do live streams on monday evening 5 p.m pacific uh time uh work permitting obviously if i can get off work in time where i just kind of answer the questions and talk and you know just if you haven’t seen a live stream come check it out the live chat’s always asking questions we’re interacting we’re talking um also go live on the hvac overtime channel with my buddies adam joe and bill and we you know just kind of recap the week that’s friday evenings about 605 pm pacific uh it happens every week again work permitting um and uh yeah it’s just another good way to get a hold of me uh interact with me and my buddies so definitely check it out okay you guys are amazing be kind to one another and we will catch you on the next one okay


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